Friday, 9 October 2015

Picasso Mania and Jazz - Last Post from Paris

Wednesday October 7 was a mix of sun and cloud with a high of 17C.  We headed off for a coffee at Strada Cafe, our morning coffee spot.  We got to know the baristas there, an interesting mix of young people from Holland, Poland and France.  We walked over to the Marais to the Metro line that would take us to the Grand Palais.  We first stopped briefly to see a small photo exhibit in a salon in the 4th arrondissement City Hall building entitled: Les Juifs dans La Resistance.  The photographer, Amal Buziarsist, took pictures of surviving Jewish WWII resistance fighters living in Paris.  There were also interviews with some of the subjects of the photographs.

Poster for Exhibit
Claude Lanzmann, the filmmaker, the only name we recognized
The photographs were very beautiful as these men and women are getting old and memories are fading.
Lydia Salmona nee Behar and Jacques Salmona
We then went to the opening day of the exhibit Picasso Mania at the Grand Palais.  While we had been worried about a Picasso overload-- the exhibit turned out to be excellent.  It was really a homage to the artist and while there were a number of Picasso works from the various periods of his life, each room also included works from artists from the 1960s onward, who were influenced by Picasso.  The introductory room contained 18 videos of contemporary artists.  Each spoke in turn for about a minute about the influence of Picasso on their work.

Poster for Exhibit
Live interviews in opening room; Jeff Koons, Frank Gehry, Agnes Varda and many more
As the artist spoke, the photo turned from black and white to colour and the remarks were translated into either French or English.  I took some photos as the images turned to colour and the artist spoke.
Jeff Koons
Frank Gehry

The first room had a number of paintings by contemporary artists with images of Picasso and his works.   It is amazing what an influence one artist has had on the history of modern art.


Erro (Gudmundsson Gudmundur, Dit) Hommage a Picasso, 1982

Equipo Cronica, Homenage a Picasso: Serie "Ver y Hacer Pintura" 1966-75

Zeng Fanzhi, Picasso, 2011

There was a wonderful oil painting of Picasso done by Rudolf Stingel in 2012-- his portrait is just like the photograph it is based upon.
                                                           Rudolf Stingel (b. 1956), Untitled, 2012
Cheri Samba, a Congolese painter we saw the work of a few days ago had a homage picture to Picasso.
Cheri Samba, Picasso, 2000
Maurizio Cattelan created this figure of Picasso for an exhibit at the Museum of Modern Art in 1998- Picasso is as big in the art world as any Disney figure.  Here he is in his sailor shirt.
Maurizio Cattelan, Untitled (Picasso), 1998
There were two rooms dedicated to the drawings and studies that preceded Picasso's famous work Les Demoiselles d'Avignon (1907) as well as works by contemporary artists in tribute to this famous painting.

Picasso- wall of studies and influences for Les Demoiselles d'Avignon

Some of the tribute pieces were almost copies of the original, while other artists reflected on Picasso's African art influences.

Picasso- Etude pour les Demoiselles D'Avignon 1907
Mike Bidlo, Not Picasso (Les Demoiselles D'Avignon 1907) 1984
Faith Ringgold, Picasso's Studio, 1991     
There were also tributes to Picasso's Guernica.
Leon Golub, Vietnam, 1973
There were a number of pictures by Picasso of Dora Maar (1907-89) (his lover in the late 1930s-early 1940s) and Jacqueline Roque (1927-86), his second wife who was with Picasso when he died in 1973.
Picasso, Portrait of Dora Maar, 1937  (Picasso referred to her as a crying woman)
Picasso, Grande Tete de Jacqueline au Chapeau, 1962
Andy Warhol, Head (After Picasso) No. V, 1985
Roy Lichtenstein, Woman with Flowered Hat, 1963
There was a small room containing Jasper John's (b. 1930) Four Seasons pictures done in 1985-86.  The first picture, "Summer", was based on a 1936 painting done by Picasso entitled Minotaure a la Carriole.  The Picasso painting was done after he moved houses following his marriage to Olga Khoklova.  The minotaur, a favourite Picasso image, has a carriage with all his belongings including some paintings.  It also includes a horse giving birth.  Jasper John's homage has a cart with his famous flag pictures.  It also has a etched shadow of Johns on the left side of the painting.

Picasso, Minotaure a la Carriole, 1936
Jasper Johns, Summer, 1985
One of the rooms in the exhibit had a photo montage of Picasso in the press during the last ten years of his life. He managed his image long before publicists and the media industry of today.
Film montage of Picasso in the press
Photo from an earlier Picasso exhibit
A modern take on Dora Maar---I didn't get the artists name.  

There was a room with a number of drawings and paintings by the German artist Martin Kippenberger (1953-1997).  Kippenberger had been taken with a photo of Picasso shot by David Douglas Duncan, showing Picasso outside his house in Cannes wearing a large pair of underwear.  Kippenberger painted a picture of himself wearing similar large briefs.  He later did a series of pictures as a tribute to Jacqueline, Picasso's last wife, who committed suicide in 1986.

 Photo of Picasso by David Duncan Douglas 1957 (not in exhibit)- but the one Kippenberger paid homage to
Martin Kippenberger 1988
Martin Kippenberger, Serie Jacqueline- The Paintings Pablo couldn't Paint Anymore, 1996
There was a wall of a number of the last paintings that Picasso did in the early 1970s, just prior to his death in 1973.


Again, modern takes on Picasso and his works.
Jean-Michel Basquiat, Untitled (Pablo Picasso), 1984
Antonio Saura, Dora Maar, 1983
It was an excellent exhibit.  After spending a few hours at the Grand Palais, we headed back through the Tuileries Gardens.  Sad to see the leaves turning, but nice for us to experience a different season in Paris.
Changing leaves at the Tuileries
We wandered for a few hours and then went to Duc des Lombards, one of our favourite jazz clubs to hear the Justin Kauflin Trio, which we had reserved from Toronto.  We got to the Duc des Lombards at around 7:00 p.m. for our 7:30 set.  The club is very intimate and we ended up sitting only about six feet from the band.

Alain outside of Duc des Lombards
Justin Kauflin  (b. 1986) is a young blind pianist from Virginia who was mentored by the late trumpeter Clark Terry and is featured in a documentary about their relationship called "Keep On Keepin' On", which we saw at the Bloor Hot Docs Cinema earlier this year.  They had been introduced by another musician who brought Kauflin to meet Clark Terry, when Terry's eyesight started to deteriorate due to diabetes. Kauflin had lost his sight at 11.  It was a wonderful film, well worth seeing.

At Duc des Lombards, Kauflin played with Christopher Smith on bass and Billy Williams on drums.  Most of his pieces were originals.  It was a great set---the three part piece Dedication is excellent.  He also played the piece that is featured in the documentary, as well as a tribute to Clark Terry.

Justin Kauflin
Close- up
With the band
We talked to Kauflin outside of the club after the set.  He is on a European tour- Sweden next, then Italy.  Very nice guy-- we told him we had seen the film and that we were from Toronto. He had played at one of the screenings of the film in Toronto.  Very talented and original.

After the jazz set, we went to Miznon, an Israeli restaurant in the Marais.  Alain and I shared the roasted head of cauliflower and a pita with lamb kababs.  Lots of buzz and a perfect quick dinner before we headed back to the apartment.

Blackboard and vegetables at Miznon
With roasted cauliflower 
It is now Friday October 9 as I post our last entry for this blog.  We had a long, but uneventful flight from Paris to Detroit and then on to Toronto.  Got in at around 5:00 p.m.  We had a wonderful trip, lots of adventures and memories.  

French poet Baudelaire wrote about Paris: "We are enveloped and steeped as though in an atmosphere of the marvellous; but we do not notice it."  We do notice and enjoy Paris so much!  

We will return.  Thank you for following our adventures.

Wednesday, 7 October 2015

Beauté Congo -1926-2015- Congo Kitoko Exhibit

We awoke to rain on Tuesday October 6, but it cleared by the time we left the apartment at noon.  It was humid for most of the day (high 20C) and there were a few 5-10 minute sun showers that we managed to dodge.  We headed out to the Foundation Cartier pour l'art contemporain to see the exhibit: Beauté Congo -1926-2015- Congo Kitoko.  On Rue Montparnasse, we passed La Closerie des Lilas, the legendary cafe (founded in 1847) with lots of greenery, where Trotsky and Hemingway and other members of the early 20th century intelligentsia hung out.

La Closerie des Lilas
The Fondation Cartier's building was designed by Jean Nouvel and opened in 1994.
Outside of Museum
Poster for Exhibit
The exhibit surveyed nearly a century of painting, photography and sculpture in the Democratic Republic of the Congo.  The walls were full of vibrant colours.  When we arrived, we watched a number of video interviews with several young and emerging Congolese artists whose work was displayed on the main floor.  One of the artists, Kiripi Katembo (1979-2015) died of malaria on August 5, 2015 not long after visiting Paris for the opening of the exhibit.  His works were large-format colour photos of life in Kinshasa reflected in puddles.  The series was entitled Un Regard.

2011
2011

There were a number of paintings and photographs that payed homage to the Mohammed Ali-George Foreman fight in Kinshasa in 1974.
Steve Bandoma (b. 1981) Je suis jeune, serie Cassius Clay 2014
The emerging artists covered politics, street life in a unique and colourful fashion.
Pathy Ishindele (b. 1976) It's My Kings 2012

Kura Shomali (b. 1979) Le General major devant sa troupe 2013

Kurt Shomali- Monsieur X devant la tribune 2011
JP Mika (b. 1980) painted a number of pictures of sapeurs- which he describes as ..."the young people crafting their entire identity around their clothes, their poses and the way they choose to assemble their style".  The first of the following four pictures by Mika is entitled La SAPE, an acronym that refers to the "Societé des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Elégantes".  These were among my favourites paintings in the exhibit.
La Sape 2014
Kiese na Kiese- Happiness and Joy 2014
Mandela dignite pour l'Afrique 2014
La Nostalgie 2014

Monsengo Shula (b. 1959) did amazing paintings of cosmonauts in African clothing-- portraying a hope that someday Africans will be able to engage in space travel.
Monsengo Shula, Satellite Roi, 2013

The exhibit also included a number of earlier Congolese painters who emerged in the 1970s defining themselves as "popular painters".  These included Moke, Cheri Cherin and Cheri Samba.


                                Cheri Samba (b.1956)- Kadogo, I am for Peace that is Why I Like Weapons 2004

                                           Moke (1950=2001)  Untitled and undated (Match Ali-Foremen, Kinshasa 1974)
There were also incredible sculptures of futuristic cities.  Bodys Isek Kingelez (b. 1949) created La Ville de Sete en 3009, one of my favourites as we have visited my cousins who live in Sete a number of times.

La Ville de Sete en 3009, 2000
There was also a few rooms of early photographs from the 1950s and even earlier paintings in the lower level of the gallery.   It was an amazing exhibit-- one of our favourites from the trip.

                                            Many black and white photos by Jean Depara (1928-1997)

After the exhibit, we walked all the way to the river and crossed over to the right bank.  We first stopped for a coffee at one of the newer coffee shops in Paris called Loustic.  They import their coffee beans from Antwerp.

We had a very late lunch at the Pan Quotidien in the Marais.  Another small exhibit we had wanted to check out had closed at 5:00 p.m. so we wandered into L'Hotel de Ville (City Hall) where there was an exhibition of city hall workers' art in a beautiful hall where we have seen exhibits in the past.  A mix of paintings, sculptures and photos.  A nice tribute to the people who work at city hall.

Poster for Exhibit

We then took the Metro out to Rue Belleville in the 19th where we met my cousin Laure for dinner at La Cave de Belleville, a new wine bar located among the numerous Chinese restaurants on the street. We had a glass of wine, some charcuterie and cheese.  


Me and Laure
It was great to get caught up and check out a different neighbourhood.

Hard to believe that Wednesday October 7 will be our last full day in Paris!!!