Friday, 2 October 2015

Fondation Louis Vuitton - another amazing Gehry building

Thursday October 1 was another beautiful day - blue sky, a bit of wind, with a high of 18C.  Alain went for his first run in Paris.  He did 7 km, mainly through Jardin des Plantes, which is about ten minutes from our apartment. We started our day with some food shopping on Rue Muffetard, just  five minutes away.  We have our favourite fish, meat, fruit, wine and bakery that we frequent.

Androuet- wonderful cheese shop

Local wine shop
Our fish store-- all on Rue Mouffetard

After a quick lunch at the apartment, we took the Metro to the new Louis Vuitton museum in the Bois de Boulogne, designed by Frank Gehry.  We feel very lucky to have visited the Guggenheim museum designed by Gehry in Bilbao earlier this year, and now being able to visit what is we would call a companion piece in Paris.  It is an enormous glass sailing ship.  It was commissioned by Bernard Arnault, the head of the luxury-goods conglomerate LVMH, largely to showcase his and the company's art collections.
View walking towards museum

Side of the building

The temporary exhibit from the collection was entitled: La Collection Pop et Musique.

Poster from show


Model of Museum

Gehry's fish circling over the Museum Cafe

Looking up through the galleries

We enjoyed a lot of the contemporary art-- pieces by Warhol, Basquiat,  Richard Prince, Gilbert & Gilbert and many others.  The music/videos rooms were very eclectic.  We enjoyed a wonderful piece by Douglas Gordon.  There were also a number of commissioned pieces done for the opening of the Museum in 2014.


                                                                     Gilbert & Gilbert- Class Warfare 1986


There was a large piece by Jean-Michel Basquiat entitled "Grillo" from 1984



The auditorium featured a number of commissioned pieces by Ellsworth Kelly (b. 1923), including a painted stage curtain and a series of coloured panels done in 2014.

Ellsworth Kelly- Stage Curtain 2014

There was a room which included a number of Deck Chairs and Metronomes done by Marina Abramovic (b.1949) entitled: Rejuvenator of the Astral Balance (2000).  The idea was to sit in one of the deck chairs in front of a metronome for 45 minutes.  We didn't manage to sit for that long-- but it was mesmerizing.

Alain in one of the chairs in front of metronome
There was also a short film about the making of the building, which included an interview with Frank Gehry who is now 86.   Toronto boy from John Street whose mother kept carp in the bathtub made good!  The museum has soaring ceilings and the galleries can accommodate very large pieces of art.

Frank Gehry on film
There was also a commissioned piece by Olafur Eliasson (b.1967) entitled Inside the Horizon-- which featured 43 coloured columns and mirrors which also reflected the water features from the museum.  It was like a hall of mirrors- we had a lot of fun taking photos.


Multiple Alains and Tobys


The water feature was also very beautiful.
Gehry often incorporates water into his buildings
We wandered up to the top level, where one could go outside and take pictures of the views of Paris and surrounding suburbs.

View from the top of the Museum


After our visit, we took a shuttle bus back to Charles de Gaulle-Etoile and went on a bit of a historical adventure.  Alain is presently reading a book called Avenue of Spies, by Alex Kershaw which focuses on Dr. Sumner Jackson, the Director of the American Hospital in Paris during WWII, and his Swiss wife, who lived at 11 Avenue Foch.  Avenue Foch was also the site of Gestapo and SS occupied buildings and many homes on the street were occupied by the Nazis.  The Jacksons were approached by the Resistance because of their proximity to Nazi activities.  They both became active in the Resistance.  Just before Paris was liberated they were arrested with their son and transported separately to labour camps in Germany.

Alain wanted to check out some of the addresses that he has been reading about.  Avenue Foch is very close to where we were dropped off.  We wandered down the street.  Alain got a picture of 11 Avenue Foch.  The building at 31 Avenue Foch, which housed the German military headquarters had been replaced by a modern apartment building.

Sign for Avenue Foch--- very opulent buildings now home to some embassies 

11 Avenue Foch
Paris history is always fascinating.  Alain hasn't finished the book yet, so couldn't tell me the outcome for the Jacksons.  He recommends reading the book.

We walked all the way back to the apartment, admiring the shop windows, stopping for a coffee on the Seine. We then walked back to Champs Elysees, passing La Concorde and the Louvre pyramid just after sunset before crossing the river.  We stopped for a leisurely pichet of red wine at Le Comptoir des Saints Peres before our final sprint back to the apartment.

Black and white graphics at Valentino window
As it is Fashion Week, there was a display on the Champs Elysees commemorating Elle's 70th anniversary.
Happy 70th Birthday Elle

Posters were reproductions of various magazine covers- this one was the first issue of November 21, 1945
La Concorde et Tour Eiffel

Pyramid at Louvre at dusk

We got back to the apartment for a very late dinner.  We both had over 25,000 steps for the day.

Thursday, 1 October 2015

Musee du Parfum and Palais Royal Sculptures

Wednesday September 30 was another beautiful sunny day (high 18C).  We set off to the Palais Garnier to pick up tickets to the Ballet for next Monday night.

 Palais Garnier

We decided to visit the new Fragonard Musee du Parfum, which just opened this year a few blocks from the Palais Garnier.  Fragonard perfumes was founded in Grasse by a Parisian lawyer, Eugene Fuchs, in 1926.  He named the perfumery after Jean-Honore Fragonard, the 18th century painter, who was also from Grasse.  Fuchs got permission to use the name Fragonard from the painter's descendants.  There was a guided tour of the museum, which we were not allowed to photograph.  Lots of beautiful perfume bottles through the ages.  Ah, the 15th century when people stopped washing and only used perfume to disguise body odours.  We also learned about how perfume is made.  
Poster for Musee
Entrance to Museum
At the end of the tour, there was area with perfume which we sampled.

Perfume area

After the tour, we walked to the Palais Royal, passing a poster for Paris Fashion week, which runs from September 29 - October 7.


When we got to Palais Royal, we first had a coffee at a new coffee shop- Cafe Kitsune.  Paris is definitely getting better coffee than the old days.

Inside of Cafe Kitsune- great poster from the Olympia
Alain with coffee at Palais Royal
Moi Aussi

We then went to our favourite scarf store- Epice, where I got Alain a new scarf for his birthday.  I forgot to take a picture, but I'm sure Alain will wear his scarf during the trip and it will show up later in the blog.

We then wandered around the Palais Royal.  There is a wonderful exhibit of 20 abstract rock sculptures by Thierry Courtadon.  His father and grandfather were stone masons.  The sculptures were amazing and fit beautifully into the Palais Royal gardens.



Fountain in middle of Palais Royal- lots of folks enjoying the sun
Alain with sculpture
Beautiful lace-like effect


It was a wonderful show!

Lots of Snoopys around Paris- it's his 65th birthday!!


More flowers

We then walked down to L'Hotel de Ville (City Hall) and checked out the free exhibit entitled Le Dressing de Reve des Parisians. The exhibit coincided with Fashion Week and showcased a number of Paris designers-- many from the Marais and Saint Germain areas.

Tres chic
Clothes from the show
We then wandered into the Marais and stopped at O Paris, a wonderful clothing store on Rue Bourg Tibourg.   I bought a great tunic-like drapey piece.  We posed for a picture with Laurent, the designer and owner.
Alain, me and Laurent at O Paris
We continued to wander-- saw a fashion crowd sipping bubbly outside a store -- lots of black styl'n in Paris this week.

We were getting tired after all our walking (over 20,000 steps on Fitbit), so took the Metro back to the apartment for another great fish dinner.  We stayed up until 1:30 a.m. listening on Sirius XM to the Jays clinch the Division Title!  So exciting.  Go Jays Go!